November 22, 2008

luscious leeks


If leeks cost a nickel per bunch, I swear I’d add them to every salty dish I make. That subtly piquant taste, the delicate bite of an onion, the rich freshness they retain even when cooked… I just love those dadgum things. And they even look lovely, reclining among the cabbage and radishes at the supermarket in long, lean, lime-green stalks, as if to say, “Yes, we are the supermodels of vegetables.”

And yet, Tom Thumb has squashed my leek-a-day dream by charging three bucks for a pair. So outraged have I been by that price, I have not purchased leeks in months. But when Mom called and said they were coming to our neck of the woods for lunch and a movie, my resolve crumbled.

One of the stalks is waiting patiently in the fridge like the jewel that it is, but the other was chopped into rings, sautéed in butter and generously heaped on chicken-provolone sandwiches. And that is why I am so heartily dedicated to the worldwide spread of this fabulous vegetable! It’s not just for quiche and soup, it’s a sandwich topper. A pasta enhancer. A cheese’s richest dream. Risotto’s most cherished mixer.

I have no distinct recipe for leeks, but here’s the best method I’ve found for coaxing out their fullest flavor.

Sautéed Leeks

One tablespoon butter
Dash of kosher salt
One leek

Melt butter in a sauté pan. Cut off the rooty end of the leek and the rather tough dark-green torso. You should have about 5-6 inches of usable leek. Cut into thin discs, and (this is SO enjoyable), using your thumb, push out the rings into the pan. Toss every 2-3 minutes. They’re done when you see hints of caramel brown on the edges, about 15 minutes.

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